Mera Peak Climbing

Posted by: Admin | Date: February 13, 2010

The Mera peak trek (6476m) is famed for being the biggest trekking peak in Nepal, though there is little technical difficulty required to climb. Mera Peak rises to the South of Everest and dominates the beautiful and remote valleys of Hinku and Hongu. The ascent of Mera Peak is made from the Mera La pass (5415m) on the Northern Face, which connects the unpopulated valley of Hongu to the Hinku valley. The late Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tensing were the first climbers to do the Mera Peak Trek, following this very route on 20th May 1953. The Mera Peak Trek begins in Lukla (after a short flight from Kathmandu). From Lukla six days of trekking will see you through fascinating Sherpa Villages to Mera Base Camp (5099m) situated at the base of an immense glacier leading to the Mera La Pass. 

As the ascent of Mera Peak continues two more High Base Camps are set up at 5385m (a little below Mera La) and a higher one at 5800m, from where the summit ascent can be attempted. Mera Peak has two distinct summits, the main one being the Northern Summit (6476m), which is reached by skirting the Central Summit (6461m) and following a classic snow ridge to the top. The climb from Mera La to the Summit is gradual with an outstanding mountain panorama of the Eastern Nepal Himalayas always in sight. The peaks visible include Mt. Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyu (8201m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Nuptse (7855m) and Chamlang (7319m) amongst many others.

Fact File:
Elevation: 6,654m/21,825 ft.
Region: Everest/ Khumbu Himal
The Route: KTM- Lukla- Mera Peak Base Camp
Best Season: Sept. to Nov. & April to May.
Duration: 17 Days
Trek type: Camping
Max Altitude: 6654 m.
Mode of travel: Flight
Grade: Strenuous

Climbing Itinerary
 
Day 01: Kathmandu - Lukla (2800m.)
We take early flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2800m.).

Day 02: Chutanga - Zatrawala Pass (4610m.) – Zatrabok (4704mt.)
Today, we trek from Chutanga to Zatrawala Pass (4610m.) and then to Zatrabok (4704m.).

Day 03: Zatrabok-Kothe
Trek from Zatrabok and do camping at Kothe. We have to take a steep descent trail to reach Kothe.

Day 04: Kothe - Tangnang (4356m.) 
We trek to Tangnang (4356m.) (Sabal Tsho-Lake) penetrating Hinku Valley (4600m.)

Day 05: Thangnang.
We would take rest at Thangnang for acclimatization.

Day 06: Tangnang - Dig Kharka (4659m.)
It is our turn to trek from Tangnang to Dig Kharka (4659m.).

Day 07:  Dig Kharka - Khare (5045m.)
We start trek from Dig Kharka and finally reach Khare (5045m.) today.

Day 08: Khare
Again we take rest at Khare for acclimatization
 
Day 09:  Khare - Mera La Pass (5350m.)
We commence our trek from Khare and reach Mera La Pass (5350m.). We won't go a farther distance. We go only up to Mera glacier or Mera La. We will traverse a long flat space on top of the glacier as we make our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft).

Day 10: Mera La (Pass) - Mera Peak High Camp
Today, we climb from Mera La (Pass) to Mera Peak High Camp.

Day 11: High Camp (5780m.).
Today, we make our climb to the high camp (5,800mt.) on the Northern slopes of the upper mountain.
 
Day 12: Mera Peak - Khare

Day 13: Khare - Kothe

Day 14: Kothe - Zatrabok

Day 15: Zatrabok - Chutanga

Day 16: Chutanga - Lukla

Day 17: Lukla - Kathmandu

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