KATHMANDU, October 30
In a landmark achievement for Himalayan exploration, a five-member international team has completed the first recorded ascent of Mt. Pathibhara (6,686m) in eastern Nepal’s Taplejung district, scaling the mountain’s previously unclimbed South-East Face through highly technical and unpredictable terrain.
The summit, reached at 1:50 p.m. on October 14, marked the culmination of a month-long expedition led by Chilean climber Hernán David Leal Barrientos, organized by Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. The climb represents a significant milestone for Nepal’s newly opened peaks and signals a growing global interest in technical mid-altitude mountaineering beyond the traditional 8,000-meter giants.
A Historic Route in Remote Eastern Nepal
The Pathibhara South-East Peak, officially opened for climbing in 2025, lies deep in the Kanchenjunga–Taplejung region, one of Nepal’s most remote and least explored mountain areas. The expedition began on September 21, setting up Base Camp at 5,150 meters after heavy monsoon rains and unstable moraines made the higher planned site at 5,200 meters inaccessible.
Led by Leal and supported by Nepali Sherpas Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa, Kunga Gyaju Sherpa, and Pema Tasi Tamang, the team established High Camp (5,408m) and Camp I (5,747m) on fractured glacier terrain, followed by Camp II (5,845m) beneath a near-vertical section of mixed ice and rock. Despite frequent snowfall, route confusion, and exposure to avalanches, the team completed 90 percent of the ascent in alpine style, fixing minimal ropes only on the most demanding sections.
Confirming the True Summit
Early reconnaissance revealed confusion between Pathibhara East (6,857m) and Pathibhara South-East (6,868m). Through topographic verification and GPS data during a snowstorm on October 4, the climbers confirmed the true summit objective listed on their permit. After 11 hours of climbing rated TD/7 in difficulty, the team reached the top, recording a GPS elevation of 6,686 meters before descending safely via the same route.
“This achievement defines courage, precision, and the relentless pursuit of exploration at the highest level,” said Pemba Sherpa, Managing Director of Xtreme Climbers. “It showcases Nepal’s expanding role as a hub for technical alpine climbing beyond the 8,000-meter peaks.”
A Double First for Hernán Leal
The Pathibhara ascent marks Leal’s second first ascent in Nepal this year. On March 25, 2025, he became the first person to climb Mt. Sharphu IV (6,433m), also with Xtreme Climbers.
“With these two groundbreaking ascents, Hernán has etched his name in Himalayan history,” said Pemba Sherpa.
Leal, a Chilean entrepreneur, motivational speaker, and two-time Everest summiteer, shared his emotions in a social media post:
“For the first time in history, a man stood on Mount Pathibhara — and that man is me. As a Chilean and a Latino, I’m proud to raise our flag on the Himalayas. The greatest mountains are the ones we carry inside.”
The Man Behind the Climb
Born in Osorno, Chile, Hernán David Leal Barrientos is the founder and president of FastCo, a multinational operating across Latin America. A graduate of Harvard Business School, Leal overcame a respiratory condition to become one of South America’s leading adventurers.
He has summited Mount Everest twice, completed the Seven Summits Challenge, and authored The Mountains We Carry Inside (2018). His short film The Boy and the Mountain was nominated for an Academy Award, inspiring climbers worldwide.
Through his Dream Route Expedition, supported by Chile’s Ministry of Education, Leal now travels globally promoting his message: “Dream Big
A New Symbol for Eastern Nepal
For Nepal, the first ascent of Pathibhara symbolizes both exploration and opportunity. The Kanchenjunga–Taplejung corridor, long overshadowed by the Everest and Annapurna regions, offers immense potential for sustainable adventure tourism and technical mountaineering.
“This is not just about reaching the summit,” Xtreme Climbers stated. “It’s about showcasing Nepal’s unexplored mountains and bringing economic opportunities to the eastern Himalayas.”
As the team safely descended to base camp, data from the historic climb, including GPS tracks and route images, are being compiled for release—marking what could become one of the most significant Himalayan ascents of 2025.